Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is pre purchase survey?
2. What is condition and value survey, (C&V)?
3. Shell I ventilate my boat through the winter time?
4. What care is needed for batteries?
5. Which Anti Fouling is the best?
6. How to protect gelcoat over winter?
7. What is the best way to learn getting in and out of
marina?
8. How can I protect blue hull gelcoat against fading and
blurring?
1. What is pre purchase survey?
A pre-purchase survey is an in-depth, thorough evaluation of all the vessel’s systems. When conditions permit, the inspection includes operational testing of all equipment. The vessel should be hauled out of the water for hull inspection. A sea trial is also highly recommended and is generally included in the cost of the survey when conditions permit and the sea trial is conducted on the same day as the inspection. Other inspections include rigging, machinery and electrical systems. Given today’s complicated vessel system, specialists should be consulted when circumstances dictate such as with large diesel powered machinery and complicated electronic systems.
2. What is condition and value survey, (C&V)?
A condition and value (C & V) inspection is generally used by insurance
underwriters and financial institutes to aid them in assessing financial
risk. This inspection addresses structural hull and deck areas, machinery
installations, fuel, exhaust and electrical systems. Om most occasions the
insurance company does not require that the vessel be hauled from the
water for inspection or launched if already stored ashore. C&V Surveys are
limited to visual inspections. No operational testing or sea trials are
performed, unless required by the above institutes.
A C&V report format is tailored to the special needs of insurance
underwriters and financial institutes, and omits descriptive detail
considered valuable to the perspective purchasers. A C&V inspection and
report should not be used for making a decision on purchase.
A C&V survey is a static inspection that compares the particular vessel
to similar vessels of the same age, size, class and intended service.
3. Shall I ventilate my boat through the winter time?
Unattended boats generate humidity and moisture below because of
water, air, and hull surface temperatures that are never identical and
always changing. While true even in a “dry” climate, this process
accelerates in a humid climate.
When you ventilate your boat, you want to do more than simply move air—you
want to equalize the humidity levels inside and outside the boat. When you
close off your boat's cabin to “protect” it from humidity, you actually
cause the humidity level below deck to rise. And no matter where your boat
is docked, humidity and temperature levels vary, and there is a
differential between air temperature and water temperature that's
constantly changing.
When there is a difference in temperature, moisture forms. You see this
happen in a rainstorm, when a hot air mass and a cold air mass meet,
reducing the humidity in the atmosphere into water, or rain. Although not
as extreme, the same phenomenon is constantly taking place on your boat,
due to the temperature difference between the cabin (which is affected by
water temperature and heat build-up during the day) and the air
temperature outside. It is that humidity (or condensation)
in the cabin that will do the most damage.
Over a relatively short period of time—just a few days or a few weeks at
most—moisture inside the boat creates an ideal atmosphere for various
molds and fungi to grow. Not only are mold, mildew, and musty air
unpleasant, but they can damage your boat's interior wood surfaces,
fabrics, electronics, and metal components. Over the long term, wood rot
is an additional potentially costly problem as well.
4. What care is needed on batteries?
Don’t let the “maintenance free” battery in your car lull you into
complacency about the battery in your boat. Neglecting a marine battery is
certain to shorten its life.
Get the most from your boat’s batteries by following these guidelines:
• Keep idle batteries fully charged. Leaving a battery even partially
discharged leads to sulfation and loss of capacity.
• Check the water level regularly. Top up as necessary to keep the level
about 1/4” above the plates.
• Use only distilled water for topping up; trace minerals and/or chlorine
in tap water really do shorten battery life.
• Fill cells after charging. If you fill them before, expansion during
charging will pump electrolyte out on top of the battery, causing a
corrosive mess and reducing the acid level inside the battery.
• Keep the top of the case clean and dry. Dampness, dirt, and acid on the
battery case can create a circuit between the terminals that will drain
the battery.
• Keep terminals and cable clamps corrosion-free. Use a wire brush to
remove corrosion. Coat both terminal and clamp with Vaseline (not grease)
to prevent future corrosion.
5. Which Anti Fouling is the best?
No single bottom paint is the best choice for everyone. The type of
bottom paint you need depends on how fast your boat moves through the
water, how smooth you want the bottom, how long the paint needs to
last—year round or just through the summer—and perhaps the type of paint
already on the bottom. Also, paint formulations that are a good match for
the fouling conditions in one body of water sometimes give disappointing
results in another. The best way to pick new bottom paint is to find other
boaters in your area who use their boats similar to the way you use yours
and ask what paint they like. If it works for them, it will work for you.
Buy the paint you hear praised most often.
Shell I drain water heater while preparing my boat for winter?
If your water heater has an electrical element, electrically disconnect
the heater before you drain it. Because the element will burn out unless
submerged, attach a tag to the electrical connection to remind you to
refill the tank before restoring the connection.
6. How to protect gelcoat over winter?
The best way so far is to apply layer of wax over all uncovered
gelcoat areas of your yacht. Process of removing it is a bit slow, but
when you remove it at spring time your gelcoat will be nice and shiny as a
new.
7. What is the best way to learn getting in and out of marina?
The best way is practice. If possible rent an older boat of good size
and good skipper. Then keep training getting in to the berth and out for few
hours in calm conditions. Do not take your family or friends unless you
want them to learn operate ropes. Repeat this tomorrow or a few days later
but with a gentle breeze to feel the impact of wind on boat movement.
8. How can I protect blue hull gelcoat against fading and blurring?
Marine wax with UV protection applied regularly shall help during
summer. When you are off your boat for longer periods, cover blue gelcoat
areas as best you can. |
|