F.A.Q.
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Ivica Bujas Ivica Bujas

Ivica has been active as an engineeer in the charter and motor yacht buisines for more than 15 years. He was working as aftersales manager for Princess and Fairline distributors being well connected in both companies.

Frequently Asked Questions


1. What is pre purchase survey?
2. What is condition and value survey, (C&V)?
3. Shell I ventilate my boat through the winter time?
4. What care is needed for batteries?
5. Which Anti Fouling is the best?
6. How to protect gelcoat over winter?
7. What is the best way to learn getting in and out of marina?
8. How can I protect blue hull gelcoat against fading and blurring?



1. What is pre purchase survey?

A pre-purchase survey is an in-depth, thorough evaluation of all the vessel’s systems. When conditions permit, the inspection includes operational testing of all equipment. The vessel should be hauled out of the water for hull inspection. A sea trial is also highly recommended and is generally included in the cost of the survey when conditions permit and the sea trial is conducted on the same day as the inspection. Other inspections include rigging, machinery and electrical systems. Given today’s complicated vessel system, specialists should be consulted when circumstances dictate such as with large diesel powered machinery and complicated electronic systems.

2. What is condition and value survey, (C&V)?

A condition and value (C & V) inspection is generally used by insurance underwriters and financial institutes to aid them in assessing financial risk. This inspection addresses structural hull and deck areas, machinery installations, fuel, exhaust and electrical systems. Om most occasions the insurance company does not require that the vessel be hauled from the water for inspection or launched if already stored ashore. C&V Surveys are limited to visual inspections. No operational testing or sea trials are performed, unless required by the above institutes.
  A C&V report format is tailored to the special needs of insurance underwriters and financial institutes, and omits descriptive detail considered valuable to the perspective purchasers. A C&V inspection and report should not be used for making a decision on purchase.
  A C&V survey is a static inspection that compares the particular vessel to similar vessels of the same age, size, class and intended service.

3.  Shall I ventilate my boat through the winter time?

Unattended boats generate humidity and moisture below because of water, air, and hull surface temperatures that are never identical and always changing. While true even in a “dry” climate, this process accelerates in a humid climate.

When you ventilate your boat, you want to do more than simply move air—you want to equalize the humidity levels inside and outside the boat. When you close off your boat's cabin to “protect” it from humidity, you actually cause the humidity level below deck to rise. And no matter where your boat is docked, humidity and temperature levels vary, and there is a differential between air temperature and water temperature that's constantly changing.

When there is a difference in temperature, moisture forms. You see this happen in a rainstorm, when a hot air mass and a cold air mass meet, reducing the humidity in the atmosphere into water, or rain. Although not as extreme, the same phenomenon is constantly taking place on your boat, due to the temperature difference between the cabin (which is affected by water temperature and heat build-up during the day) and the air temperature outside. It is that humidity (or condensation)
in the cabin that will do the most damage.

Over a relatively short period of time—just a few days or a few weeks at most—moisture inside the boat creates an ideal atmosphere for various molds and fungi to grow. Not only are mold, mildew, and musty air unpleasant, but they can damage your boat's interior wood surfaces,
fabrics, electronics, and metal components. Over the long term, wood rot is an additional potentially costly problem as well.

4. What care is needed on batteries?

Don’t let the “maintenance free” battery in your car lull you into complacency about the battery in your boat. Neglecting a marine battery is certain to shorten its life.
Get the most from your boat’s batteries by following these guidelines:
• Keep idle batteries fully charged. Leaving a battery even partially discharged leads to sulfation and loss of capacity.
• Check the water level regularly. Top up as necessary to keep the level about 1/4” above the plates.
• Use only distilled water for topping up; trace minerals and/or chlorine in tap water really do shorten battery life.
• Fill cells after charging. If you fill them before, expansion during charging will pump electrolyte out on top of the battery, causing a corrosive mess and reducing the acid level inside the battery.
• Keep the top of the case clean and dry. Dampness, dirt, and acid on the battery case can create a circuit between the terminals that will drain the battery.
• Keep terminals and cable clamps corrosion-free. Use a wire brush to remove corrosion. Coat both terminal and clamp with Vaseline (not grease) to prevent future corrosion.

5. Which Anti Fouling is the best?

No single bottom paint is the best choice for everyone. The type of bottom paint you need depends on how fast your boat moves through the water, how smooth you want the bottom, how long the paint needs to last—year round or just through the summer—and perhaps the type of paint already on the bottom. Also, paint formulations that are a good match for the fouling conditions in one body of water sometimes give disappointing results in another. The best way to pick new bottom paint is to find other boaters in your area who use their boats similar to the way you use yours and ask what paint they like. If it works for them, it will work for you. Buy the paint you hear praised most often.

Shell I drain water heater while preparing my boat for winter?

If your water heater has an electrical element, electrically disconnect the heater before you drain it. Because the element will burn out unless submerged, attach a tag to the electrical connection to remind you to refill the tank before restoring the connection.

6. How to protect gelcoat over winter?

The best way so far is to apply layer of wax over all uncovered gelcoat areas of your yacht. Process of removing it is a bit slow, but when you remove it at spring time your gelcoat will be nice and shiny as a new.

7. What is the best way to learn getting in and out of marina?

The best way is practice. If possible rent an older boat of good size and good skipper. Then keep training getting in to the berth and out for few hours in calm conditions. Do not take your family or friends unless you want them to learn operate ropes. Repeat this tomorrow or a few days later but with a gentle breeze to feel the impact of wind on boat movement.

8. How can I protect blue hull gelcoat against fading and blurring?

Marine wax with UV protection applied regularly shall help during summer. When you are off your boat for longer periods, cover blue gelcoat areas as best you can.

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